Scientific article
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Non-homogeneous approximation for the kurtosis evolution of shoaling rogue waves

Published inJournal of fluid mechanics, vol. 966, p. 1-15; A42
Publication date2023-07-06
First online date2023-07-06
Abstract

Bathymetric changes have been experimentally shown to affect the occurrence of rogue waves. We recently derived a non-homogeneous correction to the spectral analysis, allowing us to describe the evolution of the rogue wave probability over a shoal. Here, we extend this work to the evolution of the excess kurtosis of the surface elevation, that plays a central role in estimating rare event probabilities. Furthermore, we provide an upper bound to the excess kurtosis. In intermediate and deep water regimes, a shoal does not affect wave steepness nor bandwidth significantly, so that the vertical asymmetry between crests and troughs, the excess kurtosis and the exceedance probability of wave height stay rather constant. In contrast, in shallower water, a sharp increase in wave steepness increases the vertical asymmetry, resulting in a growth of both the tail of the exceedance probability and the excess kurtosis.

Keywords
  • Coastal engineering
  • Surface gravity waves
Citation (ISO format)
DA SILVA MENDES, Saulo Matusalem, KASPARIAN, Jérôme. Non-homogeneous approximation for the kurtosis evolution of shoaling rogue waves. In: Journal of fluid mechanics, 2023, vol. 966, p. 1–15. doi: 10.1017/jfm.2023.453
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Article (Published version)
Identifiers
Journal ISSN0022-1120
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Technical informations

Creation06/07/2023 12:16:11
First validation07/07/2023 10:23:04
Update07/07/2023 10:23:04
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