Scientific article
OA Policy
English

Nonlinear wave evolution with data-driven breaking

Published inNature communications, vol. 13, no. 1, 2343
Publication date2022-04-29
First online date2022-04-29
Abstract

Wave breaking is the main mechanism that dissipates energy input into ocean waves by wind and transferred across the spectrum by nonlinearity. It determines the properties of a sea state and plays a crucial role in ocean-atmosphere interaction, ocean pollution, and rogue waves. Owing to its turbulent nature, wave breaking remains too computationally demanding to solve using direct numerical simulations except in simple, short-duration circumstances. To overcome this challenge, we present a blended machine learning framework in which a physics-based nonlinear evolution model for deep-water, non-breaking waves and a recurrent neural network are combined to predict the evolution of breaking waves. We use wave tank measurements rather than simulations to provide training data and use a long short-term memory neural network to apply a finite-domain correction to the evolution model. Our blended machine learning framework gives excellent predictions of breaking and its effects on wave evolution, including for external data.

Keywords
  • Vague
  • Blended machine learning
  • Wave breaking
Citation (ISO format)
EELTINK, Debbie et al. Nonlinear wave evolution with data-driven breaking. In: Nature communications, 2022, vol. 13, n° 1, p. 2343. doi: 10.1038/s41467-022-30025-z
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Article (Published version)
accessLevelPublic
Identifiers
Additional URL for this publicationhttps://www.nature.com/articles/s41467-022-30025-z
Journal ISSN2041-1723
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108downloads

Technical informations

Creation29/04/2022 11:25:00
First validation29/04/2022 11:25:00
Update16/03/2023 06:25:55
Status update16/03/2023 06:25:54
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