Single-spectrum prediction of kurtosis of water waves in a non-conservative model

Article Article scientifique Article Single-spectrum prediction of kurtosis of water waves in a non-conservative model eng 2019 author Eeltink Debbie 830949 author Armaroli Andrea 861789 author Ducimetiere Yves-Marie 876703 author Kasparian Jérôme 0000-0003-2398-3882 662563 author Brunetti Maura 0000-0001-8199-223X 649277 013102 10.1103/PhysRevE.100.013102 1539-3755 1907.03490 We study statistical properties after a sudden episode of wind for water waves propagating in one direction. A wave with random initial conditions is propagated using a forced-damped higher order Nonlinear Schr"odinger equation (NLS). During the wind episode, the wave action increases, the spectrum broadens, the spectral mean shifts up and the Benjamin-Feir index (BFI) and the kurtosis increase. Conversely, after the wind episode, the opposite occurs for each quantity. The kurtosis of the wave height distribution is considered the main parameter that can indicate whether rogue waves are likely to occur in a sea state, and the BFI is often mentioned as a means to predict the kurtosis. However, we find that while there is indeed a quadratic relation between these two, this relationship is dependent on the details of the forcing and damping. Instead, a simple and robust quadratic relation does exist between the kurtosis and the bandwidth. This could allow for a single-spectrum assessment of the likelihood of rogue waves in a given sea state. In addition, as the kurtosis depends strongly on the damping and forcing coefficients, by combining the bandwidth measurement with the damping coefficient, the evolution of the kurtosis after the wind episode can be predicted. Rogue waves Kurtosis Statistiscs Wind forcing Dewey 500.2 arxiv physics.flu-dyn Dewey 333.7-333.9 Swiss National Science Foundation From non-linear optics to oceanic rogue waves 155970 CH Project funding Swiss National Science Foundation Nonlinearity in optics and natural systems 175697 CH Project funding 18 Institut des sciences de l'environnement 0DB 35 Groupe de physique appliquée 135 false 803 Groupe Kasparian 941 ISE Pôle Informatique environnementale 938 ISE Pôle Sciences Physical Review. E 100 b892a47b-c087-4ed1-85d9-a88cfe9930ea Article (Accepted version) Public 1907.03490v1.pdf 2715931 application/pdf openAccess Centres et instituts / Institut des sciences de l'environnement Faculté des sciences / Section de physique / Groupe de physique appliquée

Title	Published in	Access level	OA Policy	Year	Views	Downloads

Single-spectrum prediction of kurtosis of water waves in a non-conservative model	Physical Review. E			2019	466	186

Archive ouverte UNIGE

Ducimetiere, Yves-Marie